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      原生态风情

      2018-11-30 10:22| 来自: 中国散文网|作者: 广东省 陈敏仪|编辑: admin| 查看: 6233| 评论: 0

        由中国诗歌会组织的中国作家诗人采风行——多彩贵州美丽黔东南诗意之旅系列活动,于2017年7月18~22日在贵州举行。我有幸受邀参加了这场文学活动。

        活动安排之一,前往黔东南苗族侗族自治州,体验原生态的民族风情。

        岜沙苗寨——世界上最后一个枪手部落。

        7月19日7:30分,我们一行二十多位作家诗人及其亲友,乘坐旅游大巴,从贵阳出发,奔赴第一站:岜沙苗寨。

        经过六个多小时的车程,我们来到了岜沙。寨门简朴,高大的木门坊,中间挂着牛头标志,写着“岜沙”。门站着两个苗族汉子,一身黑色衣服,皮肤黝黑,腰间挂刀,地下一杆秤,两个西瓜。旁边竖着一块木牌,写着“世界上最后一个枪手部落”。

        沿着小路进寨,沿途都是参天的古树,古树身上写着“生命树”。导游介绍说,岜沙人视树为生命,父母在孩子出生后要为孩子种一棵树,并精心养护,让树茁壮成长,这树作为孩子死后的棺木。岜沙人崇树祭树,从不乱砍滥伐树木。一路走来,环境清幽。一会,看到

        一棵大树上挂着两条粗大的草绳子,那是村民的娱乐——秋千。经过一个小亭,亭子里供奉香樟木,为了感恩毛主席。几个苗家姑娘坐亭子边做刺绣活儿,听姑娘说,她们的衣服都是自己一针一线缝制的,不外卖。

        继续往前走,小石径两旁种上了豆角、葫芦瓜、玉米等农作物,青翠雅致。走进一户村民家里,门前摆着出售的苖家服饰、纸伞等物品。登上木阁楼,村寨全景尽收眼底。岜沙坐落在月亮山山麓,四面绿树青山环抱,炊烟缭绕。阁楼上还介绍了树葬风俗。

        来到岜沙寨子的中心广场,广场中央一棵枝干粗壮的树,只有少量绿叶,旁边一块巨石写着“岜沙”。一位老者扛着火枪,站在广场边,同样一身青黑衣服,宽大直筒裤,发型奇特,是由巫师用镰刀剃的,称为“户棍”,妇女盘发,别上花,上身大襟衣,下穿百褶裙,

        以青黑色为主彩线绣上花朵。称为“秦时发式汉时装”。

        年长的妇女有些坐在树荫下乘凉,有些在及廊里聊天。游客的到访,似乎与他们无关。狗狗随处可见。

        巨石后面是一排新盖的民宿——岜沙客栈,楼上挂着红灯笼,木头做的栅栏,绿色攀藤植物点缀其中,门前种了几株大丽花,很鲜艳,显得春意盎然。

        沿着小巷走近民房,吊脚楼古朴简单,上面住人,下面养猪。狗吠小径中,鸡鸣野草丛。

        这是一个从蚩尤祖先传下来的古老的村寨,这里的生活安宁没有喧闹,仿佛与世隔绝。不禁想起陶渊明的《桃花源记》,土地平旷,屋舍俨然,阡陌交通,鸡犬相闻,男女衣着,悉如外人,黄发垂髫,并怡然自乐。于是有感而发,写下《卜算子?岜沙》(新韵)

        古木叶枝繁,村寨藏山麓。袅袅炊烟绕绿庄,春色门庭驻。

        户棍火枪持,绣女织当户。梦里桃源在此逢,陶令何曾遇?

        肇兴侗寨——侗乡第一寨

        从加榜梯田前往肇兴侗寨,路途遥远,到达肇兴侗寨已是晚上十点多了。坐了一天的车,很疲累,加上饥肠辘辘。十点半吃过晚饭,拖着行李箱,沿着凹凸的石板路,前往入住的乡凤阁,侗寨的夜晚,在橘黄的灯光下显出它的妩媚。房间外面是一条小河,河水哗哗地流

        淌。这晚,水声伴着倦意入眠。

        7月20日早上吃过早餐,收拾好行李,往寨外走,这时,才认认真真看看肇兴侗塞。肇兴侗寨静静地躺在山谷之间,四面重峦叠嶂,茂林修竹;一条小河穿寨而过,流水清浅;干栏式的吊脚楼分布在小河两边,依山而建?;褂形遄⌒妥酒拥幕ń?,以配五座高大宏伟的鼓

        楼。据导游介绍,鼓楼是侗寨的标志,吉祥的象征,是侗族人休闲的场所,也是祭祀的地方。其中一座鼓楼上有一副楹联:鼓乐声声京城震动雄证当今盛世;楼阁巍巍侗寨欢呼讴歌天下太平?;ㄇ?,又叫风雨桥,是侗家人休息纳凉,遮阳避雨的场所,也是年轻人娱乐浪

        漫的地方。

        沿着石板大街往寨外走,街道两边有侗族人的早市,有卖猪肉瓜菜的,也有卖早餐水果的,蜡染的衣服引起我的好奇。

        寨门前有一个诗意的角落——那时花开驿站,这是一家小店铺,外面有一张木做的秋千椅,紫红色的牵?;ㄅ缆父?,让我忍不住去那里坐坐,回想从前的时光。

        寨门右侧前方有一片稻田,稻田旁有灌溉的水车。青翠的稻田如一块大翡翠,吸引女诗人们,她们跑到田埂上起舞翩跹,融入大自然的气息里。

        一阵曼妙的歌声响起,身穿盛装的侗族妹子们站成一排,唱起动听的侗族大歌,侗族小伙们吹着芦笙伴奏。这歌声如山涧的泉水一般明净,如枝头跳跃的雀儿一样轻灵,这是天籁,也是人类最纯净的心灵之声。余秋雨先生赞美“千年侗寨,醉美肇兴”,我也在这里找到

        了最舒心的那一碗纯真与澄澈……
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